Old Bread

I’m convinced that some of the world’s best recipes are the product of someone trying to avoid throwing out old bread. Stale bread, yesterday’s rice, last week’s tortillas; every country has a leftover starch problem. The recipes that result are a testament to the resourcefulness and creativity of it’s inhabitants. I came across this realization while in Venezuela, when I discovered the arepa (precooked corn cakes stuffed with meats and cheeses) has no good use once it has cooled down. Clearly there is something really wrong here.

Harina Pan, precooked corn meal used to make arepas From Los Roques 2009

Mexicans have evolved this art tremendously. From corn comes tortillas comes tortilla chips comes chilaquiles and tortilla soup. Chilaquiles use tortilla chips, sautéed with salsa, eggs and sometimes black beans or avocado. The dish is eaten for breakfast. You would never guess it was a foil for leftovers. Old tortillas, once fried, can also become a vehicle for ceviche or huevos rancheros. Enchiladas are just gussied up stale ones. There is a version of Mexican lasagne similar to enchiladas, but layered. I could go on and on just about Mexico.

Italians turn leftover risotto into arrancini, deep fried risotto balls, often stuffed with a chunk of cheese. Leftover pasta can be made into a pasta frittata (as can leftover risotto), thrown into minestrone, or turned into pasta salad. Ribollata, meaning “reboiled” is a soup made with beans, kale and old bread. Traditionally, it is the third incarnation of minestrone. Italians are no strangers to leftovers

In Spain, the loveliest use for old bread is gazpacho. Most people have tried classic gazpacho, but a lesser known version is white gazpacho, made with peeled almonds and grapes.

In Japan, (also China and Taiwan), congee is rice porridge often eaten for breakfast. I suspect it and sushi may have first evolved out of inventions for leftover rice. Versions of rice pudding are found all over the world – with cinnamon, coconut milk, and many different varieties of rice.

Here in the Cisne galley, crostini is one of my favorite uses for old bread. Thinly sliced and toasted, these mini ovals can now be used as a vehicle for many appetizers. One of my favorites toppings is broiled feta with red pepper relish. Traditionally, french onion soup is served over a crostini with melted gruyere. A good boullibaise, or fish stew, should be served with crostini for dipping. In the summer there is bread salad, which is like salad with giant semi-hard croutons. The croutons absorb the vinaigrette. Especially delicious in the summer when eggplant, tomatoes, basil and cucumbers are in season.

French toast, as it’s called in the states, is a dish that is made just about everywhere in the world. There is no clear knowledge of who invented it, although the oldest recipe is linked to a 4th century Roman cookbook attributed to Apicius. Here’s a killer one: Stuffed French Toast with lemon and blueberries. I suppose I should mention bread pudding too, although 9 out of 10 aren’t worth talking about.

Speaking of inferior grain recipes, there is matzah. Perhaps matzah balls are a use for leftover matzah? Matzah is a bit harder to understand, since it tastes stale even when fresh. Here is an example of the leftover being clearly superior to the “fresh” product. While we’re on the subject of Jewish food, I must acknowledge bagel chips, often served along side a bowl of matzah ball soup in the better delis. Two leftover breads in one meal!

What is your favorite use for leftovers?

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